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A BUDDING SPEARFISHERMAN by Tom H
I am sitting here trying to conjure up a single adjective that embodies the essence of my time with Phill in the Baja. The conclusion that I have reached is that there isn't one! I had the honor of experiencing a remote, beautiful and warm secret spot of the world that is teaming with life and culture. I also was able to experience all of these things in the company of family and friends. Secluded dives sites and a three-day mule trip (Click here to see the movie 'A Boy and his Mulla') into a spectacular canyon were two of the highlights of the trip. Also, the opportunity to 'chill' in a rural Mexican town experiencing day to day life, learn a new language and cruise at over the desert in the Toad Mobile were the more intimate details that made this trip complete.
Allow me to start with the diving. My first look at Baja was on the morning after we arrived- a drive to Phill’s seaside spearfishing hut- where we staged my first Secret Spot dive south of the 49th parallel. The paved road soon ended when we turned to an off track route to where our private panga lay in wait for our arrival. We arrived at the beach and were welcomed by a local fisherman named Antonio. He divides his time between living in the town of Loreto and bunking in his little house on the beach. Here, we loaded all our gear into the boat and were off to our first dive site. For the next few days, we dove some of the most amazing spots I have ever been. Hundreds of parrot fish, along with a great diversity in vegetation surrounded us in the warm water. Phill would always carry his trusty spear gun for some fresh fishes. Then came the day when, at last, I was given the role of spear fishing apprentice and allowed to carry a gun on dives. This was very exciting; however, it proved to be much more challenging then I had originally expected. It seems that the fish have extra sensory perception when it comes to spears; they avoid them at all costs. Even when I did get close enough to one to fire, something would go wrong. These situations would usually end in me promptly shooting a rock. I shot many rocks. The rocks feared me, but the fish just seemed to laugh. Nevertheless, such dives held a magnitude and variety of fish such that I had never seen. Phill managed to harvest a ton of Parrot fish, that we gave to the locals and dined on for days. "Click here to view Movie 'I got that one'."
Next on our adventure,we departed from Loreto on a four hour drive north under the blazing Mexican sun. On our way, we happened across a small town centered around a beautiful Catholic church. A short stop to gain hydration, stretch our legs and poke around this wonderfully isolated town and we were one our way! We arrived deep within the mountains where our sure-footed mules awaited. We loaded up our respective mules with gear and provisions, including lobsters caught on the dive the previous night. The lobsters resided in the DC twelve-volt cooler that was comically strapped to the back of a burro. Once rigged with gear we departed on our slow and steady journey into the depths of the canyon. (Click here to view movie of 'Do the donkeys have names?'). How thankful I was of confidence and amazing abilities of the mules; they never faltered. There were many sections of our descent of the canyon that I would not undertake on my own two feet. We tempted gravity as we slowly made our way along the edges of the canyon wall. The occasional shout to the burros, a distant eagle call, and having to steer around eight foot cacti all add to the surreal atmosphere.
| The next day we were woken by the cries of the canyon birds. I poked my head out of my tent to see a few geckos scuttle away underneath what looked like the forming of a perfectly clear sky. Later that day we walked along a dry riverbed along the canyon floor, the towering walls funneled us down until we reached a steep incline. At the top we gasped at the sight of ancient cave paintings done by indigenous tribes of the area hundreds of years earlier. |
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They were magnificent. Many were ten or twelve feet high depicting animals, people and hunting scenes. They were beautifully coloured and had wonderful detail considering the primitive methods of artistry of the time. I sat on the edge of a cliff backed by the paintings and looked down the length of the canyon
Tom reflects at canyon's edge
The tops of the palm trees wrestled with each other as the wind passed through them; a time to sit and reflect. At that moment I felt totally secluded, happy and in synchronicity with nature. It was a feeling I have since fallen in love with and search to duplicate.
My time spent in the Baja is difficult to sum up in words. All I may offer is my best descriptions of the most amazing things I experienced. The opportunity to experience such things in an interactive and adventurous manner, as well as share the trip with family and friends, is rare and valuable. The people I met, the culture I was exposed to, and the natural world I briefly lived in, all created an adventure I will always remember fondly.