Pablo

Emerging from the landscape were all sorts of Cacti including cardon, cirro, Joshua trees and elephant trees- many of which were in bloom. While shopping in the lovely old French colonial town of Santa Rosalia, I noticed that the people seem friendly and the kids especially entrepreneurial.

Lots of fresh produce (a dozen watermelons, 20 avocados, etc.) was taken on board in Loreto and when I thought we could take no more, Phill stopped and picked up two huge blocks of ice, one for me and one for Tom - a respite from the heat!

That night we ate at a small restaurant on the beach in Mulege where our waiter Miguel turned guitarist and found a friend Antonio to join us (with his guitar) as margaritas turned to tequila shots and Miguel’s deep voice filled the air.  (Click here to view movie clip of "Miguel Wails") We asked to spend the night and Miguel promised he would be back early with coffee...and he was!

Breakfast next day was at the local "restaurant" where Poncho joined us and lunch was tacos from the yellowtail that Jose-Manuel had caught that morning.  Then off we went for our first dive in the Sea of Cortez. (Click here to view movie clip of "Pablo's First Foray") It was a check out dive for all of the new equipment and a time for me to get readjusted to just being at ease under water.  On the second dive, Phill caught a hawk fish and we collected scallops.

Later that afternoon we went diving again .  Phill shot a Pargo Mulato and on the second dive he and I went down the "Roca Solitaria." On the way up, Phill shot some Parrot fish and I had to adjust my buoyancy to account for the heavily laden goody bag.  A delicious dinner soon appeared beginning with scallops and conch and followed by the pargo, sashimi style.

Early next morning, the journey by panga took us about 50 miles along a coastline that was almost deserted, except for one plantation inhabited by an infamous character  nicknamed  "el diablo."  Pelicans, boobies and frigate birds gracefully took flight heading for the hills of Baja at our approach.

Just before reaching The Rancho Secret Spot, Jose pointed to the shore. We couldn't believe our eyes. In front of us, lying perpendicular to the shore, was the perfect skeleton of a 60 foot plus blue whale.

It hadn't been there a year ago when Phill last visited, but Jose-Manuel had seen it 3 months before when he was last in the area. The skeleton was undisturbed in any way, but someone had placed a ring of sea urchins by the head of the great mammal.  I guess that there are no large carnivores to carry the bones away.  Apparently the human visitors were in as much awe as we were and, with respect, left everything as they had found it.

As if this wasn't enough to welcome us to our final destination, we saw jumping manta rays that came so close we could look down on them as they were "flying" through the water beneath us.
On another dive, we saw lots of moray eels including one free swimming that was 5 or 6 feet long.  The second dive at dusk bagged us lots more food. (Click here to view movie clip of "Night Catch") Heading back in the dark presented no problems for our expert boatsman, Jose-Manuel. (Click here to view movie clip of "Night Cruise") The next day we decided to fry some of the parrotfish instead of pigging out on sashimi and I can honestly say that it was the best fried fish that I have ever eaten.  I am a big believer in simple things that produce great results and this was a classic example of that.  The fish was simply prepared in oil with salt and pepper but what a great taste. (Click here to view movie clip of "Fried Fish") The following day, we reloaded the panga with all our gear and plenty of fresh fish fillets and lobster and ,regrettably, departed from the Rancho Secret Spot. As we neared our starting point, we were passed by a huge pod of dolphins that simply ignored us and kept on their way.  The Sea of Cortez is absolutely teaming with wildlife which is just one of the
qualities that make it such a special place!

As the sun was setting, we arrived back 'home' where we had a pleasant evening and enjoyed the lobster and some of Phil's 1999 Merlot.  The next morning we headed for civilization. I had learned some Spanish, gained some insight into the lives of fishermen on the Sea of Cortez, and enjoyed a tremendous adventure with Phill, Tom, and Jose-Manuel.  I am reminded of a slogan that I once read on a yachtsman that read, "life is not a guided tour" and although Phill was an exceptional guide I believe that this trip was an adventure for all of us rather than a simple tour.