Phill, Niky and Tom Say 'Cheeeeese!' 

Our first afternoon post Land Cruiser joyride, was spent inner tubing down the jungle river enjoying the water, rapids and chutes that tossed Tom, Phill, Jennifer (my hard-core mother) and me through the verdant surroundings.  The little biting fishes kept Mum well on top of her inner tube, and added just enough reality to the jungle experience without worrying about being stripped to the bone by hungry piranhas. 

Our trip to Caracol involved more wonder, and not only a feeling far from home, but also of feeling far from the present as this was our first foray into the ruins of the ancient Mayan civilization.  And what a civilization it was.  Standing on top of the highest man made structure in Belize and realizing that it dates to 70AD, makes you realize that you are only a very small part enjoying the immense history of people who have looked out over the same rainforest canopy. 

We shared our experience with the resident Kuatimundis and our local guides who satiated our curiosity about such a wondrous place, in which we were practically the only visitors of the day.  My brother, Tom, who is my favorite exploring, climbing, investigating partner-in-crime, I discovered many of Caracol’s secret spots under corbel vaulted ceilings in tombs and residences that would have housed brothers and sisters like us over 2000 years ago.

After the mouth-watering taster of Caracol, it was time to crank the adventure up a notch by heading to Guatemala.  Every experience from the border crossing, and the long, rough, night drive on Eastern Guatemala’s main highway to the final sunset over the lake while eating chicken (it’s all about the chicken!) and rice and beans in a tiny local restaurant on the last night was extraordinary.  Our main focus in Guatemala was to experience the humbling and awesome ruins of Tikal and the national park which surrounds it.  The pyramids are crazily steep and afford panoramic views of the jungle rooftop, pierced with ancient rock constructions that tower into the hot sky.  Antediluvian urban scenes of such complexity and precision are now inhabited by colourful and mysterious creatures like the toucan and the puma.  Even though tour buses full of visitors arrive at the gates every morning to catch the Tikal sunrise, often we could find ourselves alone examining the birds or leaf-cutter ants, and Tom and Phill and I even did our fair share at jaguar stalking, an activity yet to be mastered! 

The scale of Tikal is immense and indescribable.  So many days would be necessary to summit every pyramid and explore every trail that leads to its thousands of secret spots.  The one day of adventure we had there was enough to teach and demonstrate only a fraction of all that Tikal represents historically and ecologically.  I must return, and I can only hope to do so in the same fabulous company that this trip included.  Two silly students (one university and one high school), plus two more-than-fantastic world traveling parents plus a fabulous custom trip facilitator equals pure excitement, adventure and smiles.

Tom and Admirers

Our first stop was the infamous Rancho Macho located in the equally well known Sonoma County, California. Never had I ever imagined such a beautiful, tranquil and isolated place in the middle of such a populated state as California. The sun setting over lush hills, a patchwork of vineyards rolling away into the distance. The vultures and red tailed hawks would keep me company, circling overhead as I walked across the forty-six acre property. Up on the highest point there is a 360-degree view of the valley that truly takes the breath away. Many nights I would walk up to that point and watch the sun drown in the mountains later to be swallowed by the horizon in the dusk battle for the sky. Sun down and moon up, soon followed by the animals of both the numerous constellations and the earth. I would make my descent back to the house feeling very peaceful.

Ten days of rigging on the ranch later, Phill and I set off, Land Cruiser with dune buggy in tow. (Click here to see the movie 'The Land Train Rolleth')

Fully loaded with gear, we made our way to LA to pick up the last member of our elite team of travelers. Once we were all together, our trio embarked heading directly for the Mexican border.

Our first night in Mexico was one of the phenomenal experiences that would become commonplace for the duration of our trip. We pulled over to the side of the road after we had put a few hundred miles of Baja under the tires. A short trail of dirt road led us to our home for the night. A small clearing littered with beautiful boulders and soft desert sand to rest our bodies. We lay our Mexican ponchos and blankets on the ground, grabbed our sleeping bags and stared up at the best star show I have ever seen. The Milky Way was our total view prior to our dreams taking us away. (Click here to see the movie 'Amazing Secret Spot') As well, the night was silent. I'm not referring to the tranquility of a quiet night. I mean silent. At one point the ringing in my ears became so loud that I started to hum to myself in order to ensure I had not gone deaf. No wind, no bugs, no people, no cars, and no lights. Just the desert, the stars, and us. From that point on we did not sleep with a roof over our heads for the rest of our time together. Every night was the beach or the desert, trillions of stars, and zero additives. Everything was pure and real. It is nights such as those that keep you attuned to reality.

On through Loreto and Aqua Verde we went, Land Cruiser solid as a rock and dune buggy loyally trailing behind. A long dirt road and a few hours in a panga later we were well on our way to the Rancho Secret Spot Baja. I have to say I was extremely excited to see the location I had heard Phill speak of on many occasions. And as promised by Phill our introduction to the ranch was nothing less then spectacular. On our way along the shoreline of the Sea of Cortez we happened to see on the beach a long, white, object that seemed to be broken up into many pieces. Upon closer inspection, and information from our friend and panga pilot, Jose Manuel, we find ourselves staring directly at a sixty-foot skeleton of a Blue whale.

(Click here to see the movie 'Monster Whale Skeleton')

It was lying on the beach, perfectly intact, just waiting for some people like us to arrive and marvel at it. I have to say it took me a while to fully grasp what I was looking at. But as time went on, all of us started to imagine what such a creature would have looked like during its lifetime. Such a size, such a spectacle. So after feeling as if I had just visited Jurassic Park, we hopped back in our boat for the last few minutes of our journey to the rancho. As we approached the beach we saw a lot of small, black fins bobbing in and out of the water. We soon realized that we had a squadron of manta rays as our welcoming committee. Sailing closer, we could see them flying in formation under the waves just before they dived to the depths. This was amazing. What a way to be welcomed! (Click here to see the movie 'Squadron of Manta Rays')

Our next days were filled with wonderful dives, fresh fish, lobster, and drumming our souls out around the fire at night. (Click here to see the movie 'Drum Trippers') Such a way of life goes beyond the realm of therapeutic; it stretches the bounds of spiritualism and connection. Not only a connection with the land we were living on, but a connection between the members of our team. We would work together to accomplish everything from rigging gear, to hunting for food, to offering perspectives and experiences that challenged us all mentally. Such a life is something I didn't want to return from. (Click here to see the movie 'Dolphins off our Starboard')

Through the experiences I have had over the past month while traveling from Canada to Mexico with Phill, I return to my home a different person then when I left. The life we lived, the things we experienced, and the people that were involved had a profound impact on my outlook on my own life as well as the manner in which I relate and communicate with people. I have been set on my way to the realization of what is real, who is honest, and what type of person I want to relate to. The adventure bug has bitten me; there's no real other way of putting it. It is something that I need in my life and I can't think of better partners then the people I was with on this trip. Phill, I thank you for all that you have shown me and I am ready for our next adventure together!

Janet

Rody

Pablo

Emerging from the landscape were all sorts of Cacti including cardon, cirro, Joshua trees and elephant trees- many of which were in bloom. While shopping in the lovely old French colonial town of Santa Rosalia, I noticed that the people seem friendly and the kids especially entrepreneurial.

Lots of fresh produce (a dozen watermelons, 20 avocados, etc.) was taken on board in Loreto and when I thought we could take no more, Phill stopped and picked up two huge blocks of ice, one for me and one for Tom - a respite from the heat!

That night we ate at a small restaurant on the beach in Mulege where our waiter Miguel turned guitarist and found a friend Antonio to join us (with his guitar) as margaritas turned to tequila shots and Miguel’s deep voice filled the air.  (Click here to view movie clip of "Miguel Wails") We asked to spend the night and Miguel promised he would be back early with coffee...and he was!

Breakfast next day was at the local "restaurant" where Poncho joined us and lunch was tacos from the yellowtail that Jose-Manuel had caught that morning.  Then off we went for our first dive in the Sea of Cortez. (Click here to view movie clip of "Pablo's First Foray") It was a check out dive for all of the new equipment and a time for me to get readjusted to just being at ease under water.  On the second dive, Phill caught a hawk fish and we collected scallops.

Later that afternoon we went diving again .  Phill shot a Pargo Mulato and on the second dive he and I went down the "Roca Solitaria." On the way up, Phill shot some Parrot fish and I had to adjust my buoyancy to account for the heavily laden goody bag.  A delicious dinner soon appeared beginning with scallops and conch and followed by the pargo, sashimi style.

Early next morning, the journey by panga took us about 50 miles along a coastline that was almost deserted, except for one plantation inhabited by an infamous character  nicknamed  "el diablo."  Pelicans, boobies and frigate birds gracefully took flight heading for the hills of Baja at our approach.

Just before reaching The Rancho Secret Spot, Jose pointed to the shore. We couldn't believe our eyes. In front of us, lying perpendicular to the shore, was the perfect skeleton of a 60 foot plus blue whale.

It hadn't been there a year ago when Phill last visited, but Jose-Manuel had seen it 3 months before when he was last in the area. The skeleton was undisturbed in any way, but someone had placed a ring of sea urchins by the head of the great mammal.  I guess that there are no large carnivores to carry the bones away.  Apparently the human visitors were in as much awe as we were and, with respect, left everything as they had found it.

As if this wasn't enough to welcome us to our final destination, we saw jumping manta rays that came so close we could look down on them as they were "flying" through the water beneath us.
On another dive, we saw lots of moray eels including one free swimming that was 5 or 6 feet long.  The second dive at dusk bagged us lots more food. (Click here to view movie clip of "Night Catch") Heading back in the dark presented no problems for our expert boatsman, Jose-Manuel. (Click here to view movie clip of "Night Cruise") The next day we decided to fry some of the parrotfish instead of pigging out on sashimi and I can honestly say that it was the best fried fish that I have ever eaten.  I am a big believer in simple things that produce great results and this was a classic example of that.  The fish was simply prepared in oil with salt and pepper but what a great taste. (Click here to view movie clip of "Fried Fish") The following day, we reloaded the panga with all our gear and plenty of fresh fish fillets and lobster and ,regrettably, departed from the Rancho Secret Spot. As we neared our starting point, we were passed by a huge pod of dolphins that simply ignored us and kept on their way.  The Sea of Cortez is absolutely teaming with wildlife which is just one of the qualities that make it such a special place!

As the sun was setting, we arrived back 'home' where we had a pleasant evening and enjoyed the lobster and some of Phil's 1999 Merlot.  The next morning we headed for civilization. I had learned some Spanish, gained some insight into the lives of fishermen on the Sea of Cortez, and enjoyed a tremendous adventure with Phill, Tom, and Jose-Manuel.  I am reminded of a slogan that I once read
on a yachtsman that read, "life is not a guided tour" and although Phill was an exceptional guide I believe that this trip was an adventure for all of us rather than a simple tour.
 

Carol and Phill

First, we must both take scuba lessons so that Phill may introduce us to the awe-inspiring undersea world which will be quite new to us! Dane, my son, has raised beef and sheep in 4-H and both Dane and Chase Connolly of secret spot sonoma spent the last school year each raising a steer that was sold at auction in the local Healdsburg country fair.  Dane will continue to care for two sheep until mid July when these will also be sold at the county fair.  This will be Dane's last participation in raising and selling  animals as he just graduated from high school.

Dane Leads His Steer

With all the excitement of graduation, the trip, and the upcoming fair we are both looking forward to unique, intriguing, as well as relaxing experiences with Phill down in Baja.   Reading the personal anecdotes of other travelers in the secret spot baja newsletter has increased our own thoughts of the wonderful encounters to come!!!

Kevin